 Expert Review |  | | | | |
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This morning over breakfast in the Crystal Dining Room, a waiter I'd never met before was so thrilled -- really, thrilled -- to take my breakfast order and bring me coffee refills that I could have sworn it meant the world to him to make me happy. By the same token, by the time my husband hoisted himself up onto his regular stool at the top-of-the-ship Sunset Bar, the bartender would literally have set a chardonnay, his regular drink, in front of him before he'd even gotten situated. There was the sweet deck steward who sought me out when dining at the poolside Tastes, and knew to bring me a diet Coke without even asking. And the crew member who happened to be polishing elevator buttons but who really wanted to know how we were enjoying the cruise and by the way were we staying on for a few days in Barcelona at the end of the voyage? Service was so consistently out-of-this-world on Crystal Serenity that guilt had precluded us from making many requests of our butler (we were residing in a standard penthouse cabin), to the point where one evening he pleaded with us: "Can I bring you anything? Caviar? Pate?" We opted for a bowl of potato chips. Having sailed on most of the world's luxury cruise lines (and a three-time veteran on Crystal), I anticipated we'd feel pampered. What felt unique to me on this cruise, an 11-night Western Mediterranean sailing, was that almost every interaction with the folks who work here felt absolutely genuine -- as if they were born to please you at this moment. And, in fact, so many of them were veterans of the line, for years and years and contracts upon contracts, that it's clear that Crystal's managed to please them in return. Ultimately what came to define our experience on Crystal Serenity, the line's still-new ship, was that blend of industry-best service and innovative dining. I'm sure the trip didn't revolve around the aforementioned pampering and fantastic food-related events (such as the Mozart Tea, dinner at the Italian Prego, and a continent-encompassing Asian-themed mega-buffet) for everyone -- Crystal's much praised enrichment program is in its glory on this ship -- but it sure did please us. The ship itself is the third in the fleet following Crystal Harmony, which debuted in 1990 (and departs the fleet this year) and near-sibling Crystal Symphony, which launched five years later. Most significant about the vessel itself is that Crystal Serenity, which was launched in 2003, has benefited from a decade-plus of evolution at the cruise line. The ship, carrying 1,080 passengers and the largest in the luxury segment, is significantly bigger than its predecessors, and yet carries an expanded capacity of just 150 folks. As a result, there's a lot of extra space for the types of programs and events for which Crystal is known. Chief among them is the line's Creative Learning Institute, which features, on each voyage, veritable mini-courses in everything from foreign languages to computer skills. Responding to demand, Crystal Serenity offers twice as many penthouse cabins as on the fleet's other ships. There are two paddle tennis courts instead of one; tried-and-true Crystal devotees are fiercely competitive in this arena. And yet, even as Crystal Serenity delights, what puzzles me is why the line somehow remains a closely guarded secret among a broader passenger base who'd appreciate the combination of big-ship activities and amenities with luxury food and service. No question, once people travel on Crystal they tend to get hooked (on the voyage following ours, two-thirds of all passengers had sailed with the line before!). But the onboard atmosphere can feel, for the newcomer, a bit like a cruise line designed for the for 50-plus, well-traveled, well-heeled country club contingent, most of whom have retired and have met before (indeed in many cases have sailed together on previous trips). We, in our early 40's were easily among the youngest. The conundrum? There's really no reason why a younger, sophisticated cruise traveler wouldn't enjoy the Crystal Serenity experience. For some reason, though, the line seems mired in its appeal to a relatively limited and somewhat older passenger base. Its biggest drawbacks? Itineraries tend to be longer than average (which means they could be off-limits to younger travelers who may not have as much vacation time). As well, Crystal continues to hew to a fixed dining scenario -- two seatings, assigned tablemates -- which is a turn-off to travelers who prefer more flexibility. While thorough and engaging, onboard programs could be a bit more dynamic. And shore excursions, at least on our Western Mediterranean cruise, are clearly geared for folks not terribly interested in off-the-track adventures (for the most part, we ventured out on our own). Ultimately, Crystal is attempting some minor experimentations; it's tested some seven-night itineraries, offers more dining options than before, and does attempt to provide some razzle-dazzle late evenings in the Pulse disco, all in the aim to broaden its appeal. But it speaks to the line's strength, in a way, that it is not interested in rocking the boat to draw passengers at any cost. And it's a safe bet that unlike other lines who try too hard too fast, Crystal won't lose its identity, either. | | |  top | | | | Dining
The aforementioned Crystal Dining Room serves as the backbone of the ship's restaurant operations. Elegantly wood-paneled and with a minimum of flash and fuss to take your attention away from the experience itself, the restaurant is open seating at breakfast and lunch (and we appreciated, time and time again, the sensitivity of maitre d's in not forcing shared encounters). At night, it's tradition all the way -- with seatings at 6:15 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. While our table for eight was comprised of 40-something travelers, we shared little in common with the rest of the folks at our table. Still, the effort to seat like-aged folks together showed careful planning. Generally, cuisine was quite good to downright excellent. At breakfast, for instance, the menu offered virtually every item imaginable (including lamb chops and sirloin) and some that weren't (daily specials such as the scrambled eggs with truffles served with chicken breast, for instance). At lunch the menu is fairly limited but hits all the bases, with a sandwich of the day, a hot entree and a range of salads. In all cases, menus are designed with special items to help identify various special requests (heart-healthy, low sodium). Kudos to both the service staff and the chefs -- several times I made off-the-menu requests and once changed my order in mid-service, and each instance was handled flawlessly. One of our favorite casual options was The Bistro. A Crystal tradition that harks back to Crystal Harmony, this is a larger bistro with attractive wicker-like chairs, Guy Buffet-designed china, and a perfect light-fare buffet. Mornings (beginning at 9 a.m.) featured bagels, lox, cereals and Danish. The all-day lunch consisted of an array of cold cuts. Our only complaint? The 9 a.m. opening time was often too late if ports of call beckoned for a full day off the ship. Tastes was our other favorite spot. A new concept for Crystal, it's a casual restaurant, open for late breakfast and a late lunch, featuring a fairly limited but genuinely imaginative menu (ever had peanut butter and jelly French toast? It's tastier than you think!). Tables are set up around the ship's covered pool. Waiter service is provided. We also became regulars at the Trident Grill, which every day offered made-to-order burgers and sandwiches. Again, the opening hours were terrific in terms of flexibility; it was open from 11 a.m. - 6 p.m. daily. Saving the best for last, the ship's two alternative restaurants -- Prego, specializing in northern Italian, and Silk Road, offering cuisine designed by the famed Nobu Matsuhisa -- are reservations-only establishments (and we encourage you to make them quickly because it can be tough later on in the cruise). Both are open for dinner only from 6 - 10 p.m. Menus remain the same throughout the cruise (though they're tweaked during the year), but there was so many tempting options that it's no hardship to dine there more than once. We especially loved the lobster ravioli and the pea and shrimp risotto at Prego. Hint: Silk Road's maitre d' told us that formal nights in the dining room render these restaurants nearly empty (good time to get a second reservation) and we found that, even at the relatively last minute, tables were often available if you didn't mind dining at 9 p.m. or even later. There's no extra fee to eat at either Prego or Silk Road, though it is recommended that folks tip a quite reasonable $7 per person (at Prego, where service was particularly phenomenal and engaging, we made a point to tip well above that minimum). One unique feature of Crystal Serenity is its fabulous sushi bar. Located in Silk Road, the eight-stool restaurant features a first-come, first-served policy (there's no extra charge) -- and it's a great place not only to indulge in sushi but also to mingle with other passengers. | | | | top | | | | Public Rooms
Crystal Serenity makes a splashy impression on entry. The Crystal Cove area in the atrium is marked most significantly by a lovely waterfall sculpture and a baby grand (and as often as not, it seemed, someone was playing it -- sometimes even particularly talented passengers!). This was one of our favorite spots for people-watching onboard as passengers moved through on their way to the dining room or, a deck or two above, to browse the shops or hit The Bistro. The generously sized Creative Learning Institute is a highlight onboard. Located along an elegantly wide corridor, there are several classrooms, including one dedicated to Yamaha piano instruction (and featuring keyboards on every tabletop). The ship's cyber center is called Computers@Sea and was another bountiful recipient of Serenity's slightly larger size. This two-part room features a classroom with Internet-connected computers and then a regular cyber center layout (the most helpful staff there even opened all the computers, classroom too, when our cruise was unexpectedly extended for two days) -- and usage was free! Note, though, that in the Internet center Crystal charges per megabyte uploaded rather than per minute, and that can be costly. Also, there are dataports in cabins (and laptops for loan for a daily fee). On the opposite side of the ship, the equally lovely corridor leads the way to the excellent onboard library, which stocks DVD's for free loan -- and of course books. A handful of shops rim the upper deck of the three-deck atrium, and Crystal does an absolutely exceptional job at luring you in to spend money. Beyond the usual boutique selling logowear, there's anexcellent women's and men's fashion shop; when I found I'd forgotten my long black formal-night skirt, I had no trouble finding the perfect replacement there. Merchandise revolves around different days, so there's always a new reason to visit. Look for mini-sales; you can really find some good deals. And the staffers there were so attentive that shopping onboard felt more like a spree at Saks than on a cruise ship. Crystal Serenity has three self-service laundries. | | | | top | | | | Cabins
Another major plus for Crystal Serenity is that it has upped its ratio of cabins with balconies (85 percent have them, compared to 65 percent for Symphony). All cabins are outside. Sizes and levels of luxury range across the board. The entry-level staterooms measure 226 square ft. and while that's slightly larger than most big-ship cruise lines' comparable accommodations, it still felt pretty squinchy, and I think that's because you expect a bit more luxury on a luxury line. Balcony cabins are slightly bigger. Where Serenity really makes a leap -- and it's worth the splurge -- is in its penthouse cabins and suites (it has twice as many as Symphony). Passengers staying here are entitled to butler service -- Crystal has consistently rated the best in my experience in its butlers -- who really make the trip special, whether it's serving course-by-course dinners or procuring last-minute reservations or even nabbing room-service meals from the ship's alternative restaurants. They deliver a room service "hors d'oeuvre" menu each night that features choices like caviar and shrimp, and even as you think "I don't need it," you find yourself looking forward to it each evening. To reside on the penthouse deck you can simply book a "cabin"; at 403 square ft. it's got a sleeping area that you can curtain off from the living room, a fabulous bathroom with bidet and separate tub and shower, a walk-in closet, and a full-size couch. Beyond that, there are penthouse suites and these, at 538 square ft., are somewhat larger, and most notably offer a separate bedroom. Finally, there are just four Crystal Penthouses and these, at 1,345 square ft., are bigger than many New York apartments. Highlights include bigger everything -- from balcony to audio visual aids to the separate master bedroom with king-size bed. All penthouse-level accommodations come with marble bathrooms and whirlpool baths with separate showers. Key accouterments for all cabins, regardless of category, include flat-screen televisions, DVD players and mini-bars. There are cabins designed for folks with disabilities in all the major categories, including on the penthouse levels. | | | | top | | | | Entertainment
Crystal has carved out for itself a superior niche in the enrichment arena. Its dynamic Creative Learning Institute features a range of subjects -- foreign languages courses, art workshops, computer skills classes, and cooking, music and dance exhibitions. Through its Visions program, the line arranges for experts to speak on topics such as political science, current affairs, food and wine, astronomy, art and antiques, and on and on. Not every topic is available on every sailing, but you can check Crystal's Web site and match a favorite subject with a sailing that fits your schedule. Another area in which Crystal Serenity excels is in live music. You don't have to be an old fogey to appreciate classical music at teatime in the Palm Court, torch songs at cocktail hour in the Palm Court, Broadway show tunes in the Avenue saloon before and after dinner, and fabulously fun karaoke in the intense Pulse Disco. One new addition to the Crystal concept is the Sunset Bar, located at the end of the Palm Court and offering gorgeous views (hence the name). It was rarely crowded and became a favorite watering hole as we sailed out of port. The Crystal Casino, on the way to the Galaxy Lounge, offers a comprehensive range of table games and slots; it's no longer operated, by the way, by Caesar's Palace. . The Galaxy Lounge is the ship's main show lounge. Serenity also extends the Crystal tradition of its Hollywood Theater, which on our trip showed both classics (great for a cloudy afternoon at sea) and second-run films. Popcorn is served, but get there early. For the most part this ship attracts passengers who retire relatively early, but the Pulse Disco was a pretty reliable place to meet up with other night owls. So was the Avenue Saloon many nights. | | | | top | | | | Fitness and Recreation
The ship has two pools. The Seahorse is the main one, with a bandstand and two whirlpools. The Neptune, which lies under a sliding glass roof, is ostensibly the "bad weather" pool, but oddly enough we never saw anyone swim there (the Trident Grill and Tastes, two alternative dining options located in that area, have pretty much taken over the space with tables and chairs, and it's just not conducive to swimming while people are eating). The roof was never opened. Due to popular demand for paddle tennis, Serenity has two courts. Walkers can circle a full lap around the Promenade Deck, which also offers shuffleboard. A deck below that are the golf driving nets and a putting green (every cruise features an onboard pro who gives demos and lessons) and a set of Ping-Pong tables. The Crystal Spa and Salon is a lovely facility, hewing to a Zen theme that really worked. It was a pleasant and peaceful place to be and our treatments, which ranged from a fantastic salt and ginger scrub to a couples massage, were outstanding. Though this spa, like so many onboard cruise ships, is operated by Steiner, famous for the post-treatment product pitch, not once did anyone try to sell me anything. The salon offers the full gamut of services: haircuts, styling, pedicures and manicures. Staffers there were exceptional -- when I had a last-minute hair emergency (is there any other kind?), they took me in hand, fixed the problem and charged me far less than they could've. I appreciated that. The gym is amply outfitted with state-of-the-art equipment and flat-screen televisions to amuse while exercising. Fitness classes are offered. Plus, beginning in October 2009, Crystal will offer Nordic Walking through a partnership with LEKI USA. Guests can enjoy complimentary use of walking poles onboard. | | | | top | | | | Family
While Crystal is making little attempt to market itself as the "upscale family" cruise line, it does attract them (particularly those traveling as three generations), and as such has basic facilities for kids. There are two playrooms, with Fantasia hosting those from 3 - 7 years old and Waves for kids in the overly broad 8 - 17 age group. There are Sony PlayStations and an arcade, as well as a few specific activity offerings (particularly for the younger set), but this ship is better for families who want to entertain their own children rather than lose them for the trip. | | | | top | | | | Fellow Passengers
Crystal still attracts an empty nester crowd -- most folks we met were either retired or nearly there. Still, it was bit of a surprise on this Western Mediterranean trip to meet quite a few folks in the under-50 category. Most were North American, but we also met quite a few folks from the United Kingdom. | | | | top | | | | Dress Code
Crystal's always been a formal cruise line -- and it still is -- but the hotel director told us that the dress code is currently presenting them with a bit of conundrum. The line's more traditional passengers still wear long, elegant gowns on formal nights (and most men don tuxedos), but otherwise the code was pretty much country club casual -- except for the occasional too-hip-to-be-true dude or dudette who'd show up in patchy designer jeans that ironically cost more than the formalwear. | | | | top | | | | Gratuity
Crystal suggests tipping guidelines as follows: $4 per day for cabin stewards and waiters, $2 per day for assistant waiters, and $4 per day for butlers (penthouse accommodations) -- all per person. Drinks are automatically assessed a 15 percent service charge. We also found that service was so exceptional in the specialty restaurants that beyond the service charge we'd tip additionally. Crystal allows passengers to add tips to onboard accounts (and presents you with vouchers to give to crew), or you can do it the old-fashioned way. --by Carolyn Spencer Brown, Editor | | | | top | | | | | Expert reviews are provided by CruiseCritic.com, an award-winning cruise community. This objective information can help you choose just the right ship for your next cruise vacation. | |  | |
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